Category: Places to go

The King and Us

On November 7th, the King & Queen of Thailand visited the temple Wat Bowonniwetwiharn Ratchaworawiharn.

I had witnessed the preparations for an event on my visit to the temple and had asked a lady cleaning golden carvings with a soapy toothbrush for details. So on the day of the royal visit I was amongst a handful of tourists allowed to sit together with hundreds of locals on the street curbs opposite the temple to watch the royals arrive.

As one would expect, there was a lot of military, security, spectator group leaders but also tourist officers. The latter questioned me and other tourists coming up to the barriers about our intensions. “We would like to see your King and Queen”. That seemed to be the right answer and he guided us to places were mats had been put down to protect our clothing. As with lots of other places, especially temples, you had to take off your shoes.

Group leaders looking after the locals
The first marching band of two arrived, and so did the first drops of rain.

We tourists all scrambled under awnings. Mats were rolled up. Hardcore locals did not get up. They had been waiting for hours to ensure first row curb seats. They came prepared. Rain ponchos were handed out.

The locals were shouting the King’s name. He is well liked amongst his people.

My friend Malcolm will appreciate the beautiful Rolls-Royce. It reminded me of his novel, The Tiger’s Ghost; a Rolls-Royce plays a prominent role in it. Great story. Check it out on Amazon.

I got a proper look at the King and Queen when they left and drove past us again. I just forgot to turn on my video, blonde me.
And yes, we all waited over an hour for the whole entourage to come back. But it was raining anyway and nobody wanted to get drenched.

I later saw a report of the visit on TV. I felt very lucky to have witnessed this in person, on my first visit to Thailand no less.

Wat Bowonniwet

This was the first temple I visited in Bangkok. Located not far from my hotel and close to Khao San street I walked past it on my way to the Grand Palace.

Full name Wat Bowonniwetwiharn Ratchaworawiharn is a major buddhist temple under patronage of the Chakri Dynasty. Many royal princes and kings studied and served their monk hood here. This includes the late King Bhumibol (Rama IX) who is also laid to rest here, as well as the current King Vajiralongkorn (Rama X).

Another former king of the Chakri Dynasty, King Vajiravudh (Rama VI), is also laid to rest here.

The day I visited a lot of cleaning (all the intricate golden carvings with toothbrushes!), tree cutting (health and safety would have had a fit) and decorating was taking place. The reason will become clear in my next post.

I met the Chief of Clan Mackenzie

I had timed my drive up from Fort Williams via Loch Ness and overnight stay in Strathpeffer to fit one of the few open days at Castle Leod. Why, you ask? Because as an Outlander fan this is what you do.
And who greets me when I walk up to the castle entrance? Non other than the clan chief himself! John Ruaridh Grant Mackenzie, 5th Earl of Cromartie.

I was speechless. He told me about the history and urged me to go around the tree park. There is a rare and very old sequoia. Plus Diana Gabbaldon has planted a tree there. I was still awestruck and could only nod.

The castle interior feels lived in. Very unassuming but still impressive. The great hall is Regency style which was unexpected. So was the Edwardian billard room. I was clearly on Outlander time line in my head.

Impressive is also the collection of agates on display. The Earl himself collects, tumbles, cuts and polishes them. Majority is for sale.

Did you know you can become member of the clan and go to gatherings? Oh yeah! Check the website for details and fascinating stories about the Mackenzies: castleleod.org.uk

The clan chief waiting for more visitors.
I hugged the sequoia… couldn’t reach around.
The upper two floors have water damage and need donations for repair. Supposed to become a rental accommodation. Imagine being tenant there! Donate, donate, donate!

Wat Pho

This temple is just behind the Grand Palace. Its many pagodas have ceramic decorations. Just beautiful.
The main attraction though is the longest reclining Buddha. 46 meters! They surely must have build the temple around it.

The temple complex is one of the six top royal temples and houses the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand.

On site is also the school of Thai medicine which is attributed to be the birthplace of Thai massage. A museum informs about uses of different spices and herbs as well as anatomical techniques. It also had air condition which drew in even uninterested tourist. You can book a walk-in massage session at the school on site.

Wat Pho
Reclining Buddha

Wat Arun

WOW – the size of the pagoda is impressive but also what an unexpected decoration style! Detail photos in next post.

Another interesting feature were again the many Asians dressed up in traditional clothing, posing everywhere, photographers swarming them like paparazzis. I didn’t mind having any of the pretty ladies walking into my photos. I actually tried to take sneaky photos of them.

This temple is Khmer style and is located across the river from the Grand Palace.

My fav eatery in Bangkok

I was a little bit worried about street food to be honest. We Westerners do have a different hygiene standard, however, I got salmonella in a 4 star restaurant in Hamburg once, so maybe not?

I think it’s best not to see the kitchen, just to enjoy the food. Well, having said that I actually enjoyed watching my food being prepared at NAVA Pad Thai. The kitchen is at the front of the restaurant, very open, very organised, very simple.

Open from 10am to 7pm they are cooking non-stop. Many locals order lunch in advance. Always a good sign when locals eat there.

Every day after my sightseeing I went straight to NAVA, and got greeted like a regular. I would get a watermelon smoothie from next door then settle down in the small, air conditioned restaurant and watch the magic happen.